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Surfers in Nigeria - a trip to Tarkwa Bay Beach



Like Fela says “Water you no get enemy”.  Whenever my friends asked to go to a lake or on a beach holiday, I would roll my eyes thinking I can’t swim, and I don’t want to work on my tan cos I got one for free.

All my memories of going to the beach in Nigeria start like this, kids running around, sounds of laughter and music in the air, the smell of barbecue, the rushing sounds of the ocean, of waves breaking, people dipping their feet or standing in the water but nobody really swimming.
 
I couldn’t really swim until 2010 when I finally decided to go to a swim school in Munich. It’s not uncommon that’s a higher percentage of people born in Nigeria not living close to a natural body of water never learnt to swim. And there is of course the tales of the water Gods and Goddesses that prevent people from venturing into natural bodies of water.


So yes, I was shocked and surprised to learn that there were Nigerian children surfing at Tarkwa Bay Beach. For me it meant that they had gone beyond the tales of our past and reached out for something new, something different so I had to see this myself.

What’s the gist about Tarkwa Bay? It’s an artificial Island from the 1960’s that was created as the Lagos Harbor was being established. It’s a couple of kilometers away from Lagos island and is only accessible via boat. Tarkwa Bay is home to the only Surf School I know in Nigeria. I think it’s cool that this way people can learn other ways to interact with water. 


Traffic on the beaches in Lagos are at their busiest on the weekends starting from Friday evenings and on Public holidays. I had to choose a day that allowed me observe my surrounding with reduced human activity. To get there we took a jetty service from Merkwe Jetty close to Bonny Camp. The boat can take up to 10 people, we had to wait for other passengers before we could depart. I didn’t find a schedule, but I was told that the last transfer from Tarkwa bay back is at 6 pm.

We shared our boat ride with 3 surfers and a couple so it meant there would be some surf action going on. The transfer cost 2000 naira return per person, on arrival we had to pay a 200-naira entry fee person. I almost started dancing when I saw the tent like bamboo shade sitting area, I knew I was home cos we get it; you need shade in the scotching sun!  I can see this place being a party location but for the time of day we arrived it was perfect for chilling and doing nothing but listen to music and go for a swim. So, I chilled, watched the local surfers and I went for a swim. 

I somehow connected to the story of the kids learning how to surf. Picture this, you are in Mexico on the pacific coast watching dolphins and whales. The tour guide stops the boat and says you can go for a swim. I see my fellow travelers jump in the ocean and surface back up, the move looks beautiful and graceful, but I am paralyzed with fear. And I say to myself not today but make a promise to myself I will one day jump into Ocean and swim like a fish but it’s not today 😊


I have made progress I don’t jump into water from a boat I carefully step into it, when I swim in open waters, I try to keep mind that’s okay if my feet don’t touch the ground. Watching the locals at Tarkwa bay surf, seeing the kids so comfortable being water just reminded how times have changed and how change can sometimes be something positive.


Cheers to the Nigerian surfers at Tarkwa Bay


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Location: Tarkwa Bay, Lagos, Nigeria

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